This is a ‘things we like’ edition, a roundup of my favourite bits in the Great state of Goa.
Naasha and I were talking and said, let’s do a fun one! So it’s not that deep. ¯\(ツ)/¯
There is obviously much to recommend living in Goa, but there is a distinct difference between Goa-on-Holiday and I-live-here-Goa. If you are looking for ecstatic dance and didgeridoo-laced sound baths and other tie dyed hippie holiday vibes, I’m probably not your girl.
If you’re looking for a great margarita and the best espresso martini in the state or wondering where you can eat super-fresh fish cakes with sea spray in your hair, well then…
If it’s in here, I love it. I’ve been to all, with a couple of small exceptions that are recommendations from people I really, really (really, really) trust.
First,
we music.
A Spotify playlist to plan vacations to. It’s not bad even if you can’t get time off.
The Goa Edition
13
Let us all eat cake
”Serves fabulous sandwiches” is high praise in my book and in Panjim, these two places both qualify. No trip to Goa is complete without a visit to Padaria Prazeres in Panjim. Their pastéis de natas, those little Portuguese custard tarts, are pure perfection, but they also do excellent sandwiches and other delicious bits. Larder & Folk, also in Panjim, are another great bakery whose bagels and sandwiches are top notch.
Eating &
Drinking
The Goa Edition
Instructions for living a life: Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it.
—
Mary Oliver
Goa is, let’s be clear, pretty rubbish for shopping. A lot of what’s around is overpriced touristy cack, but there are a few people, brands, and stores that I love that are unlike anywhere else.
The Flame store
Expensive? Yes. But there’s a lot to choose from in this cool concept store. There are multiple outlets in Goa and each is its own Pandora’s Box. I love the one in Assagao for bulk-buying the must divine incense and silky co-ord sets that I wear as separates.
Rangeela
I love Rangeela. It’s a great, curated selection of homeware that is super chic and like a Dummies guide to a chic, modern tropical home. There’s clothing as well, but I didn’t love the finish or quality, particularly given prices. Also some cool accessories, but it’s the tableware, decor, rugs and other stuff for the home that really shines.
Mapusa market on Fridays
It’s like North Goa’s Borough Market. So much food, so much cool local bread, snacks, nibbles, produce… obviously best if you live here, but also much that can be taken back home when you leave.
280 Siolim by Savio Jon
280Siolim is Goan designer Savio’s home and studio all rolled into one. It is, as its name suggests, in the village of Siolim, and requires an appointment to visit. There’s clothing, of course, but also a collection of bric a brac, vintage dinnerware and glassware, books, and magazines that he’s collected over years.
Places I haven’t been but that come highly recommended:
Koa Beach Boutique
This store’s housed in the new Thalassa Beach in Mandrem. I haven’t been but I have loved Studio Tia, the brand one of the co-founders runs, for years. They make really lovely, chic, beachy pieces and while they run expensive, a mirrored silk trench I bought from them many years ago remains one of the favourite pieces in my wardrobe to date. I’ve been meaning to go, to see Studio Tia’s newer collections as well as check out accessories by Bhavya Bhatnagar and other brands they stock at Koa.
Ranji studio
Like Savio Jon’s place, I’m told this is both the home and the store of Ranji Kelekar in the village of Moira. I’ve clocked lots of vintage dinnerware and crockery in photos, and am told it’s a charming chamber of carefully-considered curiosities. I can’t wait to visit.
Goa like a local
The Local Beat’s tagline says it all: “Despite the over-tourism in Goa, there still are authentic, earthy & heart-warming experiences to seek.” This is local, insider-led tourism—run by Mackinlay Antonio das Merces Barreto and Raul da Costa, this appointment-only adventures allow glimpses into many facets of Goan life. Lunch in a grand old Goan home, waterfall-jumping, quarry-swimming, a village feast, a feni trail, fishing in a creek… there’s a lot to choose from and all of it is excellent.
Beach, please
Please, if you’re going to the beach, don’t leave your trash everywhere, don’t bring a bloody bluetooth speaker, don’t scream across the sands, and just be civilised. So many of the beaches in the North are already wrecked, don’t we want to be able to go to the beach and not be surrounded by noise and trash?
Wellness
in Goa
There is a lot of ‘wellness’ in Goa, but a good massage is weirdly hard to come by (and eye-wateringly expensive when you do find one). After two years of sampling, well, as much as I can, here’s my list of things to keep body and soul in good nick.
For yoga,
Aum yoga
in Assagao.
Aum is delightful, just a wonderful and warm teacher with a devoted following and I can see why. His classes only run weekdays, at 8am (hatha) and 10am and 11.30am (Iyengar) and every one is rammed. They’ve just added in a 4.30pm spot on some days as well, but whichever time you pick, go early, particularly in season, because it is genuinely so full of yoga mats that floorspace is hard to spot.
For functional training,
Ravi Sharma at The Reform Lab.
I’ve been training with Ravi for 2 years now and he’s the best. This group fitness studio with views over Assagao has classes morning and evening, and Ravi’s fantastic at working to your level while programming his classes for long-term gains.
For aerial and yoga,
Lara Saluja.
Love her. I wrote of Lara in the Rewild yourself edition that ‘her bright, airy shala is in her home and is one of my favourite places to be.’
For Dance
Omaggio.
As an awkward and self-conscious person, dance classes are my idea of hell on earth. That said, I once signed up for a workshop here (mistakenly thinking it was more ‘aerial fitness and strength’ and less ‘dance choreo with aerial bits included’) and I can vouch for the fact that their instructors are amazing, lovely, and so patient. If dance classes are your jam, you will have a damn good time here. Highly recommend, even if I am unlikely to do another myself.
For facials and face massage,
Anya
In Aldona, Anya’s short and sweet menu of offerings includes a wonderful Hydrafacial and incredible facial massage.
For manicures and pedicures,
Irina Krutik
For great manicures and pedicures. Ask for Pravin or Rebecca.
And for massages?
Danny Tsatsashvili and Sofia Wu are my OG and I adore them. One (Danny) is DEEP myofascial work and not for you if you like a gentle rubdown. Sofia is a blend of fascia manipulation, acupuncture and a few other modalities she throws in for good measure, but both now travel extensively and are hard to pin down in Goa. There is, of course, always Snip in Porvorim. Make sure to book well in advance though.
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